Cyphotilapia frontosa – Frontosa

Origin: Lake Tanganyika, C. frontosa is present in different populations (color variations) in all parts of Lake Tanganyika. They are found in both sandy and rocky parts of the lake. They are deep water inhabitants, ranging between 40 and 350 feet, and when collected have to be brought to the surface in stages so they don’t get the bends or end up with swim bladder problems.
Size: male up to 14 inches, females is somewhat smaller in size, up to 10 inches.
Sexual Differences: Male have a much bigger nuptial hump or bulge on the forehead.
Behavior: Quiet fish, mouthbrooder.
Water Tolerance: 75 to 81 F, pH 7-8, 10-20dH.
Feeding : Carnivorous fish, attacking sleeping fish in the semidarkness.

Cyphotilapia frontosa is one of the largest of the cichlids collected from the Rift Lakes, Lake Tanganyika, specifically. Large yes, but not as huge as some of the New World Cichlids. Males can attain a size up to or over 12 inches, females somewhat smaller. C. frontosas’ most distinguishable trait is it’s large hump located on its’ frontal lobe. C. frontosa sometimes called the Tanganyikan Humphead was one of the first cichlids brought into this country in the early seventies. There are several populations of Cyphotilapia frontosa available today.

The most common are the “Six-stripe” and the “Seven-stripe”. Others include the “Cape Chaitika”, “Mpimbwe Blue”, “Samazi Blue”, “Zambian” and the “Zaire Blue”. Recently a variety of C. frontosa called “Zaire Purple” has surfaced. It takes an expert to tell some of these varieties apart. Of course, if it’s a variety with a different striping pattern, it’s a little easier. To most casual observers, they are a large humpheaded white and black fish with varying degreees of blue replacing some of the white.

Photos Credits: destin-tanganyika.com, thetropicaltank.co

Technorati Tags: Lake Tanganyika Cichlids, Cichlids, Mouthbrooder Cichlids

Hexamita Disease – Hole in the head

Symptoms:
The symptoms are well described by the name. First, the fish will develop small, grey, pin-hole abrasions around the eyes and head. These lesions will grow and if not treated, will eventually kill the fish

Cause:
Flagellate protozoans, such as Hexamita and Spironucleus.

Prevention:

• Cleansing of the tank and water filtration
  
• Enriching frozen food with vitamins
  
• Including flake foods, as they are rich with vitamins
  
• Including greens (fresh or frozen) to the fish’s diet
  
• Decreasing the amount of beef heart as it lacks many critical nutrients.
  
• Removal of activated carbon filtration.
  
• As feeder fish contain little nutritional value, it is recommended to offer them only occasionally
  
• Many fish stores sell medication that can be used to coat food. This medication works from the inside-out, and is very effective.
  
• Feeding chopped garlic is also effective

Photos Credits: aqualandpetsplus.com - fishdeals.com

Symptoms:
Fish may have deteriorating fins, often with red or white edges. Secondary Fungal infections often occur.frayed fins and tail, occasionally only a stub of the tail remains.

Cause:
Bacterial infection caused by Aeromonas and/or Pseudomonas bacteria often precipitated by poor water quality, low water temperatures, or a combination of both.
Treatment:
Careful monitoring of water quality and an occasional slight rise of the water temperature helps prevent this disease.The success rate for treating Fin Rot is good providing the illness is caught early and water conditions are kept optimal. Left untreated this infection can be deadly. Early treatment is essential! Once treated, fin tissue lost to this illness will grow back providing the fin rays and/or fin bases have not been damaged.
Prevention

1. Good water quality.
2. Regularly scheduled aquarium maintenance/cleaning.
3. Fresh food in small quantities.

Cause: Citiliate protozoans(Ichthyophthirius multifilis).

Signs of Disease:

• Small white spots up to 1/25 inch in diameter and looking like grains of salt appear on fins and skin.
• Fish scratch against rocks and gravel
• In advance stage fish become lethargic and some redness or bloody streaks may also appear

Treatment:

The entire cycle takes about two weeks from start to finish. Higher temps will shorten the cycle, while low temps lengthen it. Therefore, raising the water temp shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication.
Treatments must be given for a long enough period to assure that all parasites are gone. Watch carefully for other infections, as secondary infections often occur where the skin has been damaged by the parasite. Although nothing kills the parasite once it has checked into it’s fish "hotel", several chemicals kill ich once it has left the fish. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride, and mepracrine hydrochloride are all effective, and are available under several brand names.
Dose based on the package instructions, however cut dosages in half when treating scaleless catfish and tetras. Regardless of the medication used, treatment should be given continuously for 10-14 days to ensure all parasites are killed. Between treatments a partial water change is recommended. Keep water temperatures higher than usual to speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment, as it will remove the chemicals.

Prevention:

Photo Credit: http://www.fishtankguy.com/health.php

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Common name
Green terror cichlid

Fish name: Aequidens rivulatus
Maximum size (min-max): 15.0 – 20.0 cm ( 5.9 – 7.9 in)

PH of water: 6.5 – 7.5
Water hardness (dGH): dGH 4.0 – 15.0 N
Recommended temperature: 20.0 – 24.0 C ( 68.0 – 75.2 F)
Origin: South America
Feeding:

The Green terror is a cichlid and like most fish of the cichlid species, they eat nearly every kind of food. Use live food including bloodworms, small fish, beef, but feed them vegetables as much as possible. Adults should be fed 1 or 2 times a day. The fry requires food about 4-5 times a day.

Sexing:

Males are much more coloured than females. Moreover, they are bigger than females.

Breeding:

Egg-layers. Eggs are laid on a previously cleaned rock. If stable, water conditions aren’t important at all.

Lifespan:

About 10 years; Depends on conditions heavily.
Photo Credits: aqua-fish.net